In our household we have this understanding that if you really want to eat something (that I don’t like) you have to cook it. So over the past few years John cooks liver if he wants to eat it.

Growing up, in both of our households, we had to eat liver because when you butchered a beef you didn’t waste anything, so liver was on the menu. When that liver was gone, you went to the meat market and bought more because No. 1: liver is really good for you; and No. 2, it was one of the cheapest meats to buy and in John’s family of nine you really had to stretch the dollar. My mother’s version of cooking liver (it came in all sizes and thickness) was to dip it in plain flour and then fry until it was shoe leather! John’s mother recipe was a bit more up-scaled, she had fried onions to go with it.

Over time John has researched and found liver recipes that make the product more palatable. (I think the challenge for him is to see me eat it—enough ketchup might make it work!) The other night John did have the magic touch—a new liver recipe with “hardly” any ketchup, that was tender, juicy and yummy.

Beef liver with fig, bacon and caramelized onion

When John is in the kitchen cooking I leave. I have a hard time keeping quiet on “how” he follows the recipe to the exact amount and actual ingredients. I use recipes as a guide and if I don’t have an ingredient I use something else which in the end does change the recipe. John is stuck with “we don’t have figs, white balsamic vinegar, fresh sage or arrowroot flour,” instead he ended up using dates, regular balsamic vinegar, dried sage, and all-purpose flour. It worked.

375g beef liver, sliced

The juice of 1 large lemon

2 tsp arrowroot flour

1/2 tsp sea salt

1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper

4 slices smoked Max Burt bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

1/4 tsp sea salt

1/2 tsp freshly ground pepper

2 large onions, sliced

200g fresh mushrooms, sliced

4 dried figs, chopped

2 sprigs fresh sage, chopped

2 Tbsp white balsamic vinegar

1/4 cup water

In a non-reactive sealable container, marinate the beef liver in lemon juice for at least 8 hours (or up to 24 hours). Yes, that’s in the refrigerator!

In a cold, large heavy skillet (cast iron preferred) set over medium heat, cook the bacon until nice and crispy.

While the bacon is cooking, rinse the beef liver slices under running water and pat them dry.

In a shallow bowl or plate, combine the arrowroot flour, salt and pepper. Mix thoroughly with a whisk until very well combined.

Dredge the liver slices in the arrowroot mixture and shake well to remove any excess. Set aside in a plate until bacon is done cooking.

When bacon is nice and crispy, remove it to a plate with a slotted spoon, and set aside. Pour the bacon fat into a small bowl but leave about 2 tablespoons in the pan. Put the skillet back over high heat.

When the pan is really nice and hot, add the liver slices and sear for about 45 seconds to a minute per side, just long enough for them to get a beautiful dark brown and crispy exterior. You might have to work in batches, depending on the size of your skillet.

Remove the liver to a plate, cover loosely to keep it warm while you work on the onion compote. Put your pan back over the heat source and lower heat to medium-high; add about half the remaining bacon fat and throw the sliced onions right in (I also added three large cloves of garlic).

Let the onions caramelize for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. When the onions have taken a nice golden coloration, add the remaining bacon fat and the sliced mushrooms. Continue cooking for 2-3 minutes, until the mushrooms become soft and slightly golden.

Add figs (or dates), salt, pepper, vinegar and water and cook for another minute or so, until liquid is completely evaporated.

Stir in fresh sage, kill the heat and place liver slices on top of the onion compote. Cover loosely and let sit for about 5 minutes just to warm up the liver and allow all the flavours to mingle happily.

Serve immediately, sprinkled with the crispy bacon.